Ocean 115 - Introduction to Oceanography » Spring 2022 » Waves lecture quiz

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Question #1
What are waves classified by?
A.   wave height and depth
B.   wave height
C.   length
D.   depth
E.   length and depth
Question #2
Waves in which the particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes are known as?
A.   Constructive waves
B.   Orbital waves
C.   Destructive waves
D.   Rogue waves
E.   Recreational waves
F.     
Question #3
The disturbing force of a wave is ________________.
A.   the progressive moment of a wave
B.   the tidal effect on the shoreline
C.   the orbiting of a wave that causes things like seagulls to bob up and down in the water
D.   the source of energy that causes the wave
Question #4
How is a free wave different from a forced wave?
A.   free waves are caused by a disturbing force and forced waves are not caused by the disturbing force
B.   forced waves are caused by a disturbing force and free waves are not caused by the disturbing force
C.   forced waves are not maintained by the disturbing force and free waves are maintained by the disturbing force
D.   free waves are not maintained by the disturbing force and forced waves are maintained by the disturbing force
Question #5
What is wave height?
A.   the difference between two wave troughs
B.   the difference between the crest and the trough
C.   the distance between two wave peaks
D.   the difference between the fetch and the trem
Question #6
The restoring force of a wave switches from cohesion to gravity when the wavelength is greater than _____________.
A.   1.73 cm
B.   2 m
C.   173 cm
D.   11.7 cm
E.   12 m
Question #7
If the restoring force of a wave was successful the ocean would be ___________.
A.   calm
B.   full of waves of equal height
C.   unpredictable
D.   full of waves of unequal height
Question #8
Shallow Water Waves have a depth < ___________________of the wavelength.
A.   1/50
B.   1/20 
C.   ½
D.   1/5
Question #9
Waves with the longest wavelength move the _________________.
A.   at the same speed as those with the shortest wavelengths
B.   slowest
C.   fastest
D.   way the currents push them making their speed unpredictable and in a constant state of flux.
Question #10
Wave dispersion causes a smooth undulation of ocean water known as the ______________________.
A.   fetch
B.   wave duration
C.   Ekman spiral
D.   swell
Question #11
What factors affect wind wave development?
A.   all of these
B.   wind duration
C.   wind strength
D.   fetch
Question #12
What happens to waves during destructive interference?
A.   waves that occur when water is < ½ wavelength in depth and interacts with the bottom
B.   waves occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum
C.   two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave (subtraction)
D.   additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves (addition)
Question #13
Rogue waves are caused by?
A.   additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves (addition)
B.   waves occur due to constructive interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum
C.   waves that occur when water is < ½ wavelength in depth and interacts with the bottom
D.   two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave (subtraction)
Question #14
The ESSO Nederland was struck by a?
A.   Tsunami
B.   Spilling wave
C.   Plunging wave
D.   Rogue wave
Question #15
Wave breaks when wave height is ______ of wave depth
A.   1:4 ration
B.   3:4 ration
C.   5:6 ration
D.   1:2 ration
Question #16
When the crest of a wave slides down the face of the wave as it breaks on shore, it is known as a?
A.   Rogue wave
B.   Plunging wave
C.   Fetch
D.   Spilling wave
Question #17
What is wave diffraction?
A.   when a wave propagates around an obstacle
B.   the slowing and bending of waves in shallow water
C.   when a wave shortens
D.   when waves “bounce back” from an obstacle they encounter
E.   when a wave lengthens
Question #18
What is wave reflection?
A.   when a wave shortens
B.   when a wave propagates around an obstacle
C.   when a wave lengthens
D.   when waves “bounce back” from an obstacle they encounter
E.   the slowing and bending of waves in shallow water
Question #19
Polynesian colonizations used what technique to travel to unseen islands in the South Pacific?
A.   plunging waves
B.   wave reflection
C.   wave diffraction
D.   tsunamis
E.   wave refraction
Question #20
You can escape a rip current.
A.   True
B.   False

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