Ocean 115 - Introduction to Oceanography » Spring 2022 » Waves lecture quiz

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Question #1
What are waves classified by?
A.   wave height
B.   length
C.   depth
D.   wave height and depth
E.   length and depth
Question #2
Waves in which the particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes are known as?
A.   Rogue waves
B.   Recreational waves
C.   Orbital waves
D.   Constructive waves
E.     
F.   Destructive waves
Question #3
The disturbing force of a wave is ________________.
A.   the tidal effect on the shoreline
B.   the source of energy that causes the wave
C.   the progressive moment of a wave
D.   the orbiting of a wave that causes things like seagulls to bob up and down in the water
Question #4
How is a free wave different from a forced wave?
A.   forced waves are caused by a disturbing force and free waves are not caused by the disturbing force
B.   free waves are caused by a disturbing force and forced waves are not caused by the disturbing force
C.   free waves are not maintained by the disturbing force and forced waves are maintained by the disturbing force
D.   forced waves are not maintained by the disturbing force and free waves are maintained by the disturbing force
Question #5
What is wave height?
A.   the difference between two wave troughs
B.   the difference between the fetch and the trem
C.   the distance between two wave peaks
D.   the difference between the crest and the trough
Question #6
The restoring force of a wave switches from cohesion to gravity when the wavelength is greater than _____________.
A.   173 cm
B.   2 m
C.   12 m
D.   1.73 cm
E.   11.7 cm
Question #7
If the restoring force of a wave was successful the ocean would be ___________.
A.   full of waves of unequal height
B.   full of waves of equal height
C.   calm
D.   unpredictable
Question #8
Shallow Water Waves have a depth < ___________________of the wavelength.
A.   1/5
B.   1/50
C.   1/20 
D.   ½
Question #9
Waves with the longest wavelength move the _________________.
A.   fastest
B.   way the currents push them making their speed unpredictable and in a constant state of flux.
C.   slowest
D.   at the same speed as those with the shortest wavelengths
Question #10
Wave dispersion causes a smooth undulation of ocean water known as the ______________________.
A.   swell
B.   wave duration
C.   Ekman spiral
D.   fetch
Question #11
What factors affect wind wave development?
A.   wind duration
B.   fetch
C.   wind strength
D.   all of these
Question #12
What happens to waves during destructive interference?
A.   waves occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum
B.   two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave (subtraction)
C.   waves that occur when water is < ½ wavelength in depth and interacts with the bottom
D.   additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves (addition)
Question #13
Rogue waves are caused by?
A.   waves that occur when water is < ½ wavelength in depth and interacts with the bottom
B.   additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves (addition)
C.   two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave (subtraction)
D.   waves occur due to constructive interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum
Question #14
The ESSO Nederland was struck by a?
A.   Tsunami
B.   Plunging wave
C.   Rogue wave
D.   Spilling wave
Question #15
Wave breaks when wave height is ______ of wave depth
A.   1:2 ration
B.   5:6 ration
C.   1:4 ration
D.   3:4 ration
Question #16
When the crest of a wave slides down the face of the wave as it breaks on shore, it is known as a?
A.   Spilling wave
B.   Fetch
C.   Rogue wave
D.   Plunging wave
Question #17
What is wave diffraction?
A.   when a wave propagates around an obstacle
B.   when a wave lengthens
C.   the slowing and bending of waves in shallow water
D.   when a wave shortens
E.   when waves “bounce back” from an obstacle they encounter
Question #18
What is wave reflection?
A.   when a wave lengthens
B.   when a wave propagates around an obstacle
C.   when waves “bounce back” from an obstacle they encounter
D.   when a wave shortens
E.   the slowing and bending of waves in shallow water
Question #19
Polynesian colonizations used what technique to travel to unseen islands in the South Pacific?
A.   tsunamis
B.   wave diffraction
C.   plunging waves
D.   wave reflection
E.   wave refraction
Question #20
You can escape a rip current.
A.   True
B.   False

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