Ocean 115 - Introduction to Oceanography » Spring 2022 » Waves lecture quiz

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Question #1
What are waves classified by?
A.   length and depth
B.   length
C.   depth
D.   wave height
E.   wave height and depth
Question #2
Waves in which the particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes are known as?
A.   Destructive waves
B.   Orbital waves
C.     
D.   Rogue waves
E.   Recreational waves
F.   Constructive waves
Question #3
The disturbing force of a wave is ________________.
A.   the progressive moment of a wave
B.   the source of energy that causes the wave
C.   the tidal effect on the shoreline
D.   the orbiting of a wave that causes things like seagulls to bob up and down in the water
Question #4
How is a free wave different from a forced wave?
A.   forced waves are caused by a disturbing force and free waves are not caused by the disturbing force
B.   forced waves are not maintained by the disturbing force and free waves are maintained by the disturbing force
C.   free waves are caused by a disturbing force and forced waves are not caused by the disturbing force
D.   free waves are not maintained by the disturbing force and forced waves are maintained by the disturbing force
Question #5
What is wave height?
A.   the difference between the crest and the trough
B.   the distance between two wave peaks
C.   the difference between two wave troughs
D.   the difference between the fetch and the trem
Question #6
The restoring force of a wave switches from cohesion to gravity when the wavelength is greater than _____________.
A.   173 cm
B.   1.73 cm
C.   12 m
D.   11.7 cm
E.   2 m
Question #7
If the restoring force of a wave was successful the ocean would be ___________.
A.   full of waves of equal height
B.   unpredictable
C.   full of waves of unequal height
D.   calm
Question #8
Shallow Water Waves have a depth < ___________________of the wavelength.
A.   ½
B.   1/50
C.   1/5
D.   1/20 
Question #9
Waves with the longest wavelength move the _________________.
A.   fastest
B.   slowest
C.   at the same speed as those with the shortest wavelengths
D.   way the currents push them making their speed unpredictable and in a constant state of flux.
Question #10
Wave dispersion causes a smooth undulation of ocean water known as the ______________________.
A.   wave duration
B.   swell
C.   fetch
D.   Ekman spiral
Question #11
What factors affect wind wave development?
A.   fetch
B.   wind duration
C.   all of these
D.   wind strength
Question #12
What happens to waves during destructive interference?
A.   two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave (subtraction)
B.   additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves (addition)
C.   waves that occur when water is < ½ wavelength in depth and interacts with the bottom
D.   waves occur due to interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum
Question #13
Rogue waves are caused by?
A.   additive interference that results in waves larger than the original waves (addition)
B.   waves occur due to constructive interference and result in a wave crest higher than the theoretical maximum
C.   two waves that cancel each other out, resulting in reduced or no wave (subtraction)
D.   waves that occur when water is < ½ wavelength in depth and interacts with the bottom
Question #14
The ESSO Nederland was struck by a?
A.   Spilling wave
B.   Tsunami
C.   Plunging wave
D.   Rogue wave
Question #15
Wave breaks when wave height is ______ of wave depth
A.   1:4 ration
B.   5:6 ration
C.   1:2 ration
D.   3:4 ration
Question #16
When the crest of a wave slides down the face of the wave as it breaks on shore, it is known as a?
A.   Plunging wave
B.   Rogue wave
C.   Fetch
D.   Spilling wave
Question #17
What is wave diffraction?
A.   when a wave propagates around an obstacle
B.   when waves “bounce back” from an obstacle they encounter
C.   when a wave lengthens
D.   the slowing and bending of waves in shallow water
E.   when a wave shortens
Question #18
What is wave reflection?
A.   when a wave propagates around an obstacle
B.   when a wave lengthens
C.   when waves “bounce back” from an obstacle they encounter
D.   when a wave shortens
E.   the slowing and bending of waves in shallow water
Question #19
Polynesian colonizations used what technique to travel to unseen islands in the South Pacific?
A.   tsunamis
B.   wave refraction
C.   wave reflection
D.   plunging waves
E.   wave diffraction
Question #20
You can escape a rip current.
A.   False
B.   True

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